Tavsif
(arab.-tekis, silliq) Tanda ipi ham, arqoq ipi ham tabiiy ipakdan toʻqiladigan bir yuzlama silliq mato. Tanda ipi abrbandi usulida boʻyab bezatiladi. Alohida ishlov berib Atlasga jilo beriladi, shunga koʻra u tovlanib turadi. Ilgari mato yuziga kudung urilgan, hozirgi kunda Atlas issiq satxli baraban – kalandrdan oʻtkaziladi. Oʻzbek Atlaslari rang-barang nafis gullarga boy, bu gullar bir-biri bilan uygʻunlshib, matoda yaxlit goʻzal bir naqshni hosil qiladi. Atlasning tabiiy ipakdan toʻqilgan eng aʼlo navi sakkiz tepkili xonatlas deb ataladi. Xonatlasning barcha siri uning tuzilishi va toʻqilish usulidadir. Atlasning toʻqilish jarayoni: toʻrt tepkili Atlas toʻrt tepkili dastgohsa, sakkiz tepkili Atlas sakkiz tepkili dastgoxda toʻqiladi. Tandaga gulalar tandaning har sakkiz naxi toʻqilishda ustma-ust keladigan qilib koʻtariladi, naxlar tepkilarga muvofiq-lashtirilib, gulalar oʻynagʻichlarga ulanadi. Tepki bosilganda gulaning biri pastga tortilib, ustma-ust yotgan naxlardan birining komi ochiladi va orasidan birinchi arqoq ipi oʻtadi, ikkinchi tepki bosilsa, ikkinchi komi ochilib, ikkinchi arqoq ipi oʻtadi. Shu tariqa sakkiz nax orasiga sakkiz arqoq ipi ustma-ust tushib, tanda ipi matoning ustiga tomon joylana borib toʻqima bir yuzlamaga aylanadi.
Description
(Arabic: plain, smooth) It is a one-sided smooth fabric made of natural silk, both the tan and the back. After special treatment, the Atlas is polished, so that it can shine. Uzbek atlases are rich in colorful and elegant flowers, which combine with each other to create a beautiful pattern on the fabric. A higher grade of atlas silk is called eight-stranded khanatlas.
Misol(lar)
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Tanchaning ikki biqinida ikki xotin: bulardan bittasi ichidan atlas ko‘ynak, ustidan odmi xon atlas guppi kiygan, boshig‘a oq dakanani xom tashlag‘an, o‘ttuz besh yoshlar chamaliq go‘zal, xush bichim bir xotin. Manba: Abdulla Qodiriy, O'tkan kunlar |
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Taxmonda turlik rangda atlas va shohilardan qoplang‘an ko‘rpalar, taxmon toqchalarig‘a uyilgan par yostiqlar, qator-qator xitoyi jononlar: kosalar, ko‘zalar, chinni choydishlar, laganlar, kumush qinlik xanjar va qilichlar, qalqon va siparlar, dorga soling‘an turlik-turlik er va xotin kiyimlari: po‘stin, chakmon va boshqalar, qip-qizil gilam va shohi ko‘rpachalar kishi ko‘zini qamashdirar darajada edilar. Manba: Abdulla Qodiriy, O'tkan kunlar |
Example(s)
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On either side of the sandal, a woman reposes. One is wearing a long dress of khan atlas inside a sleeveless silk robe. Over these items hangs a loose white silk scarf. She is about thirty-five, beautiful, and slim. Manba: Abdulla Qadiriy, Bygone days |
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There was an array of richly colored silks and atlas-covered blankets stored in recessed shelves along with piles of feather pillows; there were rows of tine Chinese tableware, ornate cups of delicate porcelain, as well as teapots, plates, and pitchers; and the walls were covered with swords, shields, helmets, daggers, and sabers in silver filigreed sheaths. An assortment of men and womens clothing, draped or folded, lined the walls; there were chokmon coats and travel robes as well as vibrant red carpets and silk blankets. Ones eyes were dazzled by the display of wealth. Manba: Abdulla Qadiriy, Bygone Days |